| Slow boat to Pak Ou 
Jenny & Ellie from Canada get their first taste of Mekong hooch.
Breakfast in Luang Prabang has to be my favourite meal of the day, especially when taken overlooking the Mekong River.
On this particular day it was near perfect. Coffee, toast and fresh baguettes served with a smile and only a few paces towards the riverbank from the Sok Dee guesthouse. The sounds of early morning, the view of the river and the leisurely ambience of the whole area can conspire to fill many hours especially if one is tired, as we most certainly were!
After 3 days exploration of Luang Prabang’s old town quarter and the previous evening at Dao Fa, the huge nightclub on the outskirts of the town, we were in need of a break from anything involving effort!
Having said that, Dao Fa was a great night out. A local recommendation (see ‘Good Morning LAOS’ June issue), it sported a disco and a local band that were both surprisingly good and very loud. The locals and the staff were extremely friendly - but the most entertaining thing about the experience was the dancing. The music ranged from the most modern to local Mor Lum and, to this, the crowd moved as one in a sort of Laos version of the American line-dance complete with all the hand movements so typical of traditional dancing. Quite amazing. It certainly left an impression, as did the Beer Lao. Hence a quiet breakfast!!
All aboard with Mr. Vieng.
The third coffee was interrupted by the inevitable tout: “You like river trip, sir? Very good, all day. I have nice boat for you!” We had planned a day out of the town, exploring on bicycles, but this planted a new idea - and one which required no effort whatsoever!
“Maybe later, thanks.”
“OK. You just ask for Mr.Vieng, boat number 3.”
After more coffee and a clearer head it began to sound even more of a good idea. Why not!
We left the riverside cafe intent on seeking out Mr.Vieng, but no need. He appeared on the street, smiling in anticipation, before we had made 50 meters!
I do love bartering in the east and find it great fun, especially when the starting price is a good deal anyway. This was no exception and after several minutes of high finance, more smiles and several cries of “Oh, I lose money!” we agreed on the deal - US$5 each – cemented by handshakes and much further smiling! We had teamed up during breakfast with a Canadian lady and her two very attractive teenage daughters so the total for the day was $25 – every one was happy.
Mr.Vieng’s boat was a much smaller version of the traditional longboat river ferries which ply the Mekong the length of Laos on a daily basis. Maybe in need of a coat of paint but sturdy enough: prop at the back, steering wheel at the front and covered seats in between. No frills except for a few cushions to ease the pain of the wooden bench seating. With loads of room and reasonable comfort, we set off upstream.
The view from river-level was immediately a very different one. Being November, the waters of the Mekong had dropped somewhat after peaking at the end of the monsoon deluge. Village people were starting to plant crops on the exposed silted banks. Everywhere neat rows of vegetables in little fertile fields, neatly fenced in with bamboo. Whole families were working together – smiles and waves from the kids and the now familiar shouts of “Sabai dee!” With all this, and the early sun burning off the mist on the mountains, the views were wonderful.
Aladdin’s Cave
Weaving in Aladdin's Cave!
First stop was Ban Xieng Leck, a village on the eastern bank just a few kilometers from the town and a centre for local textiles. We initially planned half an hour here and were soon admiring the beautiful silks and cotton fabrics and watching the girls perform miracles on their looms, producing the intricately woven tube-style silk skirts worn by the majority of the female population. One family group was weaving large red and black wall-hangings enriched with patterns of heavy gold thread. The finished products hung around the workshop and garden, producing an “Aladdins cave” effect which was stunning. Time to buy!! This enterprising family were used to boat-trip tourists and the effects of the heat, and had created a small cafe under the rattan in the garden. To this we retired having made several purchases as it was by now almost 10am and we were getting extremely hot. Drink was needed. (Tip no 1: always take water on the boat-trip!). Being well organised, they had lots of bottled water on ice and we settled down to some friendly discussion.
Goodies made by craftswomen, limestone karsks made by nature.
They were interested in who we were and where we came from, we in their ability to produce such complex and beautiful fabrics - using what seemed such basic materials and facilities. Luckily we all spoke and understood enough Thai to converse effectively and so the time passed. We returned to the boat one-and-a-half hours later, much to the amusement of Mr.Vieng, who by this time thought we had got lost!
Heading further up river, the flat land of the immediate river valley soon gave way to the towering karsk limestone peaks so typical of the region. Rugged and awesome. We relaxed in the boat taking in the splendour of it all.
Suddenly we were passed by a much larger and faster boat, complete with a buffet, bar and a guide with a megaphone, carrying 100 or so German tourists directly to Tham Ting cave. Guides in Laos are evidently the same as those in Thailand and have only one setting on any amplification equipment: as loud as possible.
Next stop was the riverbank village of Ban Xieng Hai, our planned destination for the (replaced) bicycle ride. We knew what they made here: drink! Famous for its production of Laos rice wine and several other bottled beverages, Ban Xieng Hai sits high on the eastern bank of the Mekong, overlooking a huge sweep of sandbank lined with traditional fishing boats.
By the time we had climbed the steep path leading up the bank, we were ready to try the goodies on offer! We were met immediately by a smiling lady standing beside a very large table, which literally groaned under the weight of the samples and full bottles on offer. It seemed somewhat rude to decline!!
The rich, ruby and very sweet concoction (Lao Khow Kam) tasted quite fruity and quite strong. “Lao Standard Alcohol, 50%” said the label. Hmmm! The other glasses contained a clear liquid which resembled water but tasted like rocket fuel. This was the “wine” (Lao lao) for which the village was so well-known and was certainly not standard alcohol by any stretch of the imagination. The 2 were in fact so different that it was quite difficult, using the small samples, to make any fair comparison. Further investigation was needed, so I bought a bottle of each and headed on to look round the village.
Ban Xieng Hai is surprisingly large, so we again spent some time chatting to the locals and, quite simply, mellowing out. This village could get very crowded if one’s visit coincided with a few of the larger tourist boats - but we were lucky!
An exceptionally nice bar overlooking the river helped yet another hour pass until a smiling Mr Vieng appeared, anxious to continue up river to our final destination and some lunch! We collected our purchases and clinked happily back to the boat!
Pak Ou Cave
Beyond Ban Xieng Hai the jungle invades the river completely. Thick creepers hang from the trees and the old bamboo stems above the water. Near one village they provided a natural series of swings for the children, who took great delight in dropping from the vines into the rivers edge, only to climb up and start again amidst squeals of laughter. The limestone grew ever more rugged, the sun hotter and hotter. We spied a great crack in the sheer wall of limestone on the left bank, reaching to the river itself. As we approached, we realised this was our final destination: Pak Ou Cave.
From the water the caves are impressive. The entrance appears as a ragged gash in the side of the rock face, well above the level of the river. The staircase, brilliant white against the hues of the natural stone, snakes its way upwards from the river pontoon to Tham Ting, 50 feet above.
Here we were not so lucky as at Ban Xieng Hai. The place was very crowded. We tied up to the same boat that had overtaken us on the river earlier, and had to climb over it to reach the stairway to the caves.
Inside the unique Pak Ou Cave
The caves, which like so many in both Laos and Thailand are filled with sacred Buddha images, are interesting and have a history stretching back over 500 years as a place of holy pilgrimage. They also afford panoramic views of the Mekong and the mountains beyond. But we were now short of time and extremely hungry so, retracing our steps downwards, we crossed the river to a stilted restaurant for lunch. Yet another of Mr.Vieng’s ideas and, I have to say, a very good one!!
The river here is wide and the current is slack – the river emits no sound. The restaurant afforded a clear view of the limestone wall of Pak Ou towering upwards on the far bank. Only as a boat passed the caves could we really see just how large the wall of rock was. In comparison the boats looked like toys. The rock face seemed to act as an amplifier – even the quietest sounds were echoed back across the waters – and voices on the far bank hundreds of meters away were quite clear. The lunch was tasty and there was lots of it! We could have spent far more of the afternoon taking in the atmosphere, but time was now pressing and Mr.Vieng wished to make Luang Prabang before it got dark! 
The journey downriver was far quicker than the upstream run as, apart from the helpful current, we also made no stops. The views were spectacular, enhanced by an ever lowering sun, casting a myriad colours on the surface of the waters. Every village had chosen late afternoon as the time to wash clothes and persons in the river probably due to the drop in both the heat and humidity, so stifling a few hours earlier.
We were to treated to endless waves from the children and more “Sabai dee” slightly muffled by the regular chug-chug of the little boat’s valiant engine!!
All too quickly the last bend was rounded, we crossed the mouth of the Mae Nam Khan, experienced Mr.Vieng’s “Mekong U-turn” to face upstream and we were back – much later than planned, though tired and happy. Well over 9 hours for $5 each!! Having said that, I must admit that we did donate a little extra to Mr.Vieng, whose service was excellent in all respects! After that there was little better to do than to sit back in our favourite riverside cafe and to watch the show put on by the setting sun, which positioned itself splendidly – exactly between two distant mountains. As the final golden globe disappeared, our tranquillity was broken by a smiling intruder:
“Hi, sir, where you go tomorrow? You want nice boat-trip up the river …..?” |
